1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074 Advertise your product or brand here contact www.OpenSubtitles.org today 2 00:00:35,880 --> 00:00:39,880 The polar regions are more hostile to life than any other part of the Earth. 3 00:00:45,480 --> 00:00:49,920 Human beings have little natural protection against the cold, 4 00:00:52,120 --> 00:00:54,919 so why, for thousands of years, 5 00:00:54,920 --> 00:00:57,720 have we endured the hardships that come from living here? 6 00:00:59,720 --> 00:01:02,239 And what keeps us coming back today, 7 00:01:02,240 --> 00:01:04,840 to the farthest extremes of our planet? 8 00:01:22,440 --> 00:01:26,640 Winter in the most northerly town on Earth, Longyearbyen. 9 00:01:28,600 --> 00:01:32,320 Here, for three months of the year, the sun never rises. 10 00:01:35,120 --> 00:01:39,159 Only the full moon, which never sets as far north as this, 11 00:01:39,160 --> 00:01:41,560 sheds any light into the darkness. 12 00:01:55,400 --> 00:01:57,879 This town was built here in Svalbard, 13 00:01:57,880 --> 00:02:02,200 only 700 miles from the North Pole, to support a mine. 14 00:02:03,920 --> 00:02:07,160 The Arctic is rich in coal, oil and minerals. 15 00:02:14,200 --> 00:02:16,580 In Siberia, the Russian Arctic, the mineral 16 00:02:16,581 --> 00:02:18,960 wealth has given rise to large cities. 17 00:02:25,120 --> 00:02:28,760 This is Norilsk, the coldest city on Earth. 18 00:02:32,280 --> 00:02:37,679 Temperatures regularly drop to below minus 50 degrees Centigrade. 19 00:02:37,680 --> 00:02:40,340 Fuel freezes in the tanks of the trucks, and 20 00:02:40,341 --> 00:02:43,000 has to be melted in a rather alarming way. 21 00:02:49,560 --> 00:02:53,120 Ships are frozen into the rivers for nine months of the year. 22 00:02:54,920 --> 00:02:57,559 The ice must be cut away from their hulls 23 00:02:57,560 --> 00:03:02,160 because steel becomes brittle and vulnerable to the thickening ice. 24 00:03:05,000 --> 00:03:08,180 Like all Arctic cities, Norilsk depends on a 25 00:03:08,181 --> 00:03:11,360 power plant which heats everybody's home. 26 00:03:12,400 --> 00:03:17,599 Waste heat from the plant even keeps a lake ice-free all winter. 27 00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:20,740 Even at air temperatures of minus 50, the 28 00:03:20,741 --> 00:03:23,880 Norilsk Walrus Club come here every day. 29 00:03:39,120 --> 00:03:43,839 There is evidence that a dip in cold water is good for the immune system, 30 00:03:43,840 --> 00:03:46,719 but when the water is a degree above freezing, 31 00:03:46,720 --> 00:03:50,520 it's hard to imagine that the benefits could outweigh the pain. 32 00:04:04,560 --> 00:04:07,700 Today's Arctic city dwellers can lead an 33 00:04:07,701 --> 00:04:10,840 almost normal existence thanks to technology. 34 00:04:12,000 --> 00:04:17,360 But towns and cities are very recent arrivals in the polar landscape. 35 00:04:19,760 --> 00:04:23,679 The polar regions are the least populated part of our planet. 36 00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:28,040 Most of the Arctic remains empty of human beings. 37 00:04:32,200 --> 00:04:36,600 In the north, the Pole itself is covered by a freezing ocean. 38 00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:43,800 Around it lie vast lands, of which Siberia is the largest and coldest. 39 00:04:59,240 --> 00:05:03,159 Human beings first ventured onto the great plains of Siberia, 40 00:05:03,160 --> 00:05:07,280 the tundra, thousands of years ago, and some live here still. 41 00:05:17,360 --> 00:05:22,239 The Dolgan are one of the few tribes who still live in much the same way 42 00:05:22,240 --> 00:05:24,600 as those first Arctic pioneers. 43 00:05:33,400 --> 00:05:35,319 They are reindeer people. 44 00:05:35,320 --> 00:05:41,279 Reindeer are one of few animals that can endure these bitterly cold conditions, 45 00:05:41,280 --> 00:05:45,360 scraping a living by nibbling tiny plants that survive beneath the snow. 46 00:05:50,200 --> 00:05:52,879 Nobody has ever totally tamed reindeer, 47 00:05:52,880 --> 00:05:56,639 but today's animals are docile enough to allow the Dolgan 48 00:05:56,640 --> 00:06:00,840 to drive them across the tundra in an everlasting search for their food. 49 00:06:18,720 --> 00:06:24,120 This is a typical Dolgan village, home to just two extended families. 50 00:06:36,000 --> 00:06:39,999 Here, in the coldest part of Arctic, the only way to get water 51 00:06:40,000 --> 00:06:43,920 for nine months of the year is to melt ice from the frozen rivers. 52 00:06:50,160 --> 00:06:54,079 At least there's no problem preventing food from decay. 53 00:06:54,080 --> 00:06:56,280 Outside is one big deep-freeze. 54 00:07:00,040 --> 00:07:02,559 Survival is only possible because of reindeer fur. 55 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:05,839 It makes wonderfully warm clothing, 56 00:07:05,840 --> 00:07:08,240 though small children still have to be sewn into 57 00:07:08,241 --> 00:07:10,640 their clothes to prevent instant frostbite. 58 00:07:13,800 --> 00:07:17,880 The Dolgan even use reindeer fur to insulate their huts. 59 00:07:20,920 --> 00:07:24,680 This is living at its most communal. 60 00:07:25,840 --> 00:07:28,640 Good relations with the in-laws are essential. 61 00:07:30,920 --> 00:07:33,720 Reindeer are so valuable that the people 62 00:07:33,721 --> 00:07:36,519 only eat them if they have no other choice. 63 00:07:36,520 --> 00:07:40,320 Their favourite food is raw fish from the frozen rivers. 64 00:07:43,400 --> 00:07:46,140 Every week or so, these families have to travel 65 00:07:46,141 --> 00:07:48,880 to find new feeding grounds for their herds. 66 00:07:51,760 --> 00:07:54,759 First, they round up their strongest animals with lassoes, 67 00:07:54,760 --> 00:07:57,260 a skill that their ancestors brought with 68 00:07:57,261 --> 00:07:59,760 them when they came north from Central Asia. 69 00:08:07,560 --> 00:08:10,880 And then, literally, they move house. 70 00:08:27,600 --> 00:08:31,199 A whole Dolgan village can move on in just a few hours. 71 00:08:31,200 --> 00:08:36,840 Over the year, they travel hundreds of miles like this across the vast tundra. 72 00:08:57,600 --> 00:09:01,879 It was the herds of reindeer, wandering over the lands of the Arctic, 73 00:09:01,880 --> 00:09:04,199 that brought the first Dolgan here. 74 00:09:04,200 --> 00:09:08,719 Other people, however, took on an even greater challenge. 75 00:09:08,720 --> 00:09:13,080 They left the land and looked for their food out on the frozen sea. 76 00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:25,480 Here in the shifting world of the sea ice, they found sea mammals. 77 00:09:59,640 --> 00:10:02,340 Pasha leads a group of Inuit men in Chukotka, 78 00:10:02,341 --> 00:10:05,040 the North Eastern corner of Russia. 79 00:10:08,120 --> 00:10:11,639 The men have travelled many hours from home in the bitter cold, 80 00:10:11,640 --> 00:10:14,000 fighting their way through a dangerous maze. 81 00:10:18,800 --> 00:10:23,560 These hundred tonne ice floes could crush their small boats like eggshells. 82 00:10:39,800 --> 00:10:44,960 The men have big families, and this is the only way they have of feeding them. 83 00:10:48,440 --> 00:10:52,400 Pasha is looking for the puffs of steamy air produced by their quarry. 84 00:10:53,960 --> 00:10:56,480 An animal that is bigger than many Arctic whales. 85 00:11:04,160 --> 00:11:06,880 A two tonne seal with formidable tusks. 86 00:11:13,200 --> 00:11:14,839 A walrus. 87 00:11:14,840 --> 00:11:18,880 It's heading for open water. They must reach it before it dives. 88 00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:27,840 An angry walrus could easily overturn the boats. 89 00:11:35,880 --> 00:11:39,159 The harpoon sticks firmly in the walrus's thick layer of blubber, 90 00:11:39,160 --> 00:11:42,400 and floats attached to it prevent the animal from diving. 91 00:12:00,320 --> 00:12:05,000 Pasha wants to kill quickly with a single clean shot. 92 00:12:17,680 --> 00:12:20,620 The hunters are exhausted after a long day, 93 00:12:20,621 --> 00:12:23,560 but they still have a lot more work to do. 94 00:12:25,520 --> 00:12:30,280 This enormous prize will feed everyone's family for weeks. 95 00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:40,280 It will take many hours to butcher. Nothing will go to waste. 96 00:12:48,720 --> 00:12:52,160 The meat is parcelled up in bags made of the animal's skin. 97 00:13:06,980 --> 00:13:08,780 Summer is almost here. 98 00:13:15,180 --> 00:13:18,379 This far north, the seasons change fast, 99 00:13:18,380 --> 00:13:23,140 the sun is rising higher and growing warmer with each passing day. 100 00:13:41,500 --> 00:13:45,539 The transformation from winter to summer is so dramatic 101 00:13:45,540 --> 00:13:49,020 that it dominates the lives of all who live here. 102 00:13:51,900 --> 00:13:55,099 The ice around the coast has almost disappeared, 103 00:13:55,100 --> 00:13:59,580 and gone are the seals and walrus that Pasha and his men relied on. 104 00:14:01,980 --> 00:14:04,860 They set off on another search for food. 105 00:14:10,580 --> 00:14:13,420 Their destination is an island in the bay. 106 00:14:20,700 --> 00:14:23,659 Their walrus skin boat is an ancient design, 107 00:14:23,660 --> 00:14:27,660 light enough to carry high up the beach so it doesn't drift away. 108 00:14:29,020 --> 00:14:32,660 THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN 109 00:14:39,580 --> 00:14:42,939 Once again, the men will have to work as a team, 110 00:14:42,940 --> 00:14:46,660 but one of them will be taking very serious risks. 111 00:14:51,900 --> 00:14:57,219 The lightest man in the group, Kolya, is also the oldest. 112 00:14:57,220 --> 00:14:59,860 He will trust his life to a length of old 113 00:14:59,861 --> 00:15:02,500 nylon rope and the strength of his friends. 114 00:15:18,460 --> 00:15:23,739 These 100 metre high cliffs are home to thousands of guillemots, 115 00:15:23,740 --> 00:15:25,780 and Kolya is after their eggs. 116 00:15:30,620 --> 00:15:33,900 He relies on the men above to lower him to the right place. 117 00:15:37,740 --> 00:15:41,819 Kolya is tough but his stress is obvious. 118 00:15:41,820 --> 00:15:45,420 HE SHOUTS IN RUSSIAN 119 00:15:48,940 --> 00:15:51,579 The men lower Kolya down to the bottom of the cliff, 120 00:15:51,580 --> 00:15:54,540 and from there, he works his way back up the crumbling rock face. 121 00:16:12,100 --> 00:16:13,180 Stop! 122 00:16:26,900 --> 00:16:29,939 This mission will produce no more than about 50 eggs, 123 00:16:29,940 --> 00:16:33,220 but at least there's no need to carry a packed lunch. 124 00:16:47,980 --> 00:16:52,460 Over the years, many men have fallen to their deaths collecting seabird eggs. 125 00:16:54,500 --> 00:16:56,860 This is truly dangerous work. 126 00:17:08,260 --> 00:17:11,219 These Arctic peoples can't grow crops. 127 00:17:11,220 --> 00:17:15,459 The frozen ground never thaws to allow them to do so. 128 00:17:15,460 --> 00:17:19,819 They rely on animals for their food so the chance to collect a few 129 00:17:19,820 --> 00:17:24,060 dozen eggs has to be taken, even if it means risking your life. 130 00:17:40,620 --> 00:17:45,459 The change of season has transformed the Arctic's coastline 131 00:17:45,460 --> 00:17:47,940 and inland, the difference is just as extreme. 132 00:17:52,660 --> 00:17:55,380 July temperatures on the tundra can be 133 00:17:55,381 --> 00:17:58,100 surprisingly high, over 30 degrees centigrade. 134 00:18:02,220 --> 00:18:05,579 Reindeer now move not just to find fresh pasture, 135 00:18:05,580 --> 00:18:09,580 but also to avoid the summer swarms of blood sucking flies. 136 00:18:12,140 --> 00:18:16,980 To keep their animals healthy, the local herders are driving them to the sea. 137 00:18:19,340 --> 00:18:24,019 The cooler conditions on the coast bring relief to the herds 138 00:18:24,020 --> 00:18:26,580 and the chance, every year, for different tribes to meet. 139 00:18:30,020 --> 00:18:32,480 Pasha and his hunters live close by. 140 00:18:32,481 --> 00:18:34,940 They've had word of the herders' arrival. 141 00:18:40,940 --> 00:18:45,739 The hunters' cargo is highly prized for the winter ahead, 142 00:18:45,740 --> 00:18:48,140 fat-rich walrus meat that's been fermenting 143 00:18:48,141 --> 00:18:50,540 in the skin bags for two months. 144 00:18:52,460 --> 00:18:57,140 Today will see an exchange that has taken place every summer for centuries. 145 00:18:58,660 --> 00:19:02,659 The herders barter reindeer skins for walrus meat. 146 00:19:02,660 --> 00:19:08,220 Pooling their resources has helped these communities to survive for so long. 147 00:19:13,780 --> 00:19:18,460 A fry-up of guillemot eggs is all the better when shared with old friends. 148 00:19:21,700 --> 00:19:26,299 Summer brings a brief chance for isolated peoples to meet. 149 00:19:26,300 --> 00:19:30,139 This is an opportunity to exchange news, arrange weddings, 150 00:19:30,140 --> 00:19:33,099 and tell the latest jokes. 151 00:19:33,100 --> 00:19:37,220 HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN 152 00:19:46,760 --> 00:19:49,639 By August, the summer is over. 153 00:19:49,640 --> 00:19:53,519 Winter arrives only too swiftly, but the peoples of the Arctic, 154 00:19:53,520 --> 00:19:57,559 who came here originally to hunt, have devised ways to deal with 155 00:19:57,560 --> 00:20:01,280 the hostile and changing conditions that have stood the test of time. 156 00:20:04,400 --> 00:20:07,080 Today, there's a new draw to the Arctic. 157 00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:17,560 This is Greenland, a territory of Denmark now 158 00:20:17,561 --> 00:20:20,520 known to be rich in oil and precious metals. 159 00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:36,360 This sled team is part of the Danish Special Forces. 160 00:20:38,320 --> 00:20:41,759 They're on one of the world's toughest journeys, a 2,000 mile patrol 161 00:20:41,760 --> 00:20:45,640 to maintain Denmark's claim to this valuable wilderness. 162 00:20:50,200 --> 00:20:53,180 But the patrol's mission is only possible with 163 00:20:53,181 --> 00:20:56,160 the help of man's oldest Arctic companion. 164 00:21:03,840 --> 00:21:06,320 Rasmus and Roland have spent the summer months training 165 00:21:06,321 --> 00:21:10,079 and getting to know their team of Greenland huskies. 166 00:21:10,080 --> 00:21:14,279 They need to have a very close bond with every single dog. 167 00:21:14,280 --> 00:21:18,079 This is Roger and Armstrong, 168 00:21:18,080 --> 00:21:23,160 actually the oldest dog in the whole patrol, but he's still going strong. 169 00:21:25,920 --> 00:21:29,799 The men are totally dependent on the stamina of their dogs, 170 00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:34,400 which will keep on running all through the bitter cold of the winter. 171 00:21:39,680 --> 00:21:44,200 This is the last time the team will see the sun for two months. 172 00:21:49,120 --> 00:21:51,839 The most intelligent dogs always lead, 173 00:21:51,840 --> 00:21:56,080 choosing the safest route, feeling for hidden crevasses and thin ice. 174 00:22:06,640 --> 00:22:11,199 This is one of six teams that patrol the whole of northeast Greenland, 175 00:22:11,200 --> 00:22:13,980 the only people in an empty wilderness that is 176 00:22:13,981 --> 00:22:16,760 larger than France and Great Britain combined. 177 00:22:20,880 --> 00:22:25,359 Conditions here are too extreme for current mining technology, 178 00:22:25,360 --> 00:22:29,319 but some day, ways will be found of digging out the huge mineral treasures 179 00:22:29,320 --> 00:22:31,560 that lie hidden within these mountains. 180 00:22:34,280 --> 00:22:40,080 The patrol secures Denmark's claim to do so simply by being here. 181 00:22:51,480 --> 00:22:53,880 But it's not the prospect of getting rich 182 00:22:53,881 --> 00:22:56,279 that makes men sign up for this patrol, 183 00:22:56,280 --> 00:22:58,720 it's the chance for the journey of a lifetime. 184 00:22:59,760 --> 00:23:02,540 The team travel over the ice for six 185 00:23:02,541 --> 00:23:05,320 months, covering up to 40 miles in a day. 186 00:23:09,240 --> 00:23:12,760 Friendship and teamwork are essential if they're to succeed. 187 00:23:14,760 --> 00:23:19,399 Their dogs can sleep outside no matter how cold it gets. 188 00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:22,800 Rasmus and Roland have a nice cosy tent. 189 00:23:26,920 --> 00:23:30,359 They have a few modern conveniences, including a radio, 190 00:23:30,360 --> 00:23:34,679 with which they report their position back to headquarters in Denmark 191 00:23:34,680 --> 00:23:36,720 and catch up on the latest news. 192 00:23:40,520 --> 00:23:42,759 Right now it's the section of money, 193 00:23:42,760 --> 00:23:47,519 what's new in the economy in Denmark, the financial crisis 194 00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:51,000 and all the other things that we actually don't care about out here. 195 00:23:52,480 --> 00:23:54,960 If you can cope with the conditions, then 196 00:23:54,961 --> 00:23:57,439 winter in the Arctic can be magical, 197 00:23:57,440 --> 00:24:01,640 especially when the greatest light show on Earth is overhead. 198 00:24:11,280 --> 00:24:14,959 The first humans in the Arctic believed the Northern Lights, 199 00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:18,799 or aurora borealis, were dancing spirits. 200 00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:21,740 Now we know the lights are caused by electrically 201 00:24:21,741 --> 00:24:24,679 charged particles streaming from the sun, 202 00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:28,040 attracted by the magnetic pull of the earth's poles. 203 00:24:40,760 --> 00:24:45,239 A big aurora storm contains enough energy to knock out satellite 204 00:24:45,240 --> 00:24:49,639 communications and power supplies across the northern hemisphere, 205 00:24:49,640 --> 00:24:53,000 so understanding the aurora is vital. 206 00:24:58,880 --> 00:25:02,160 In Alaska, rockets are used to study the Lights. 207 00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:08,159 A hundred miles up, at the edge of outer space, the rockets 208 00:25:08,160 --> 00:25:11,800 release a cloud of glowing smoke that's visible from earth. 209 00:25:16,920 --> 00:25:21,160 The smoke is blown by fierce winds which are generated by the aurora. 210 00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,919 Mapping the movement of the smoke helps scientists to understand 211 00:25:28,920 --> 00:25:32,800 how this unearthly spectacle affects our atmosphere. 212 00:25:53,800 --> 00:25:58,879 They constantly monitor the aurora to help protect us 213 00:25:58,880 --> 00:26:02,039 from its effects, so the rest of us can simply enjoy the magic, 214 00:26:02,040 --> 00:26:06,000 just as the Arctic's first people must have done, thousands of years ago. 215 00:26:21,880 --> 00:26:24,599 For all the many peoples of the Arctic, 216 00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:27,240 the aurora is a reminder of the sun's 217 00:26:27,241 --> 00:26:29,880 presence throughout the dark days of winter. 218 00:26:37,620 --> 00:26:40,499 But when the sun is below the horizon in the north, 219 00:26:40,500 --> 00:26:43,300 it's above it at the southern end of our planet. 220 00:26:46,580 --> 00:26:49,340 Here, humanity's history has been very different. 221 00:26:55,060 --> 00:26:58,499 Antarctica is far colder than the Arctic, 222 00:26:58,500 --> 00:27:03,220 and 99% of its land is permanently blanketed by ice. 223 00:27:05,020 --> 00:27:08,539 Antarctica is so utterly remote 224 00:27:08,540 --> 00:27:11,220 and inhospitable that no people ever settled here. 225 00:27:14,780 --> 00:27:18,379 It was only 200 years ago that the first human beings 226 00:27:18,380 --> 00:27:20,900 even glimpsed the vast continent. 227 00:27:28,620 --> 00:27:31,819 The first people who crossed the Southern Ocean did 228 00:27:31,820 --> 00:27:35,819 so for the same reason that the first people went to the Arctic Ocean, 229 00:27:35,820 --> 00:27:38,140 to hunt sea mammals. 230 00:27:50,660 --> 00:27:54,819 The populations of whales and seals are only now beginning to 231 00:27:54,820 --> 00:27:58,460 recover from 150 years of intensive hunting. 232 00:28:13,820 --> 00:28:16,680 But none of those hunters ever tried to venture into 233 00:28:16,681 --> 00:28:19,540 the frigid interior of the Antarctic continent. 234 00:28:21,540 --> 00:28:26,700 The first successful attempt to do that was made only a hundred years ago. 235 00:28:28,900 --> 00:28:31,500 This hut was the base for one of the most 236 00:28:31,501 --> 00:28:34,100 famous expeditions in polar history. 237 00:28:40,940 --> 00:28:45,419 It was from here in 1911 that Captain Scott and his team 238 00:28:45,420 --> 00:28:49,860 launched their attempt to be the first people to reach the South Pole. 239 00:28:54,300 --> 00:28:56,899 The cold, dry conditions have preserved the interior 240 00:28:56,900 --> 00:29:01,380 of the hut almost exactly as the expedition members left it. 241 00:29:07,020 --> 00:29:09,900 Expedition photographer Herbert Ponting 242 00:29:09,901 --> 00:29:12,780 captured the spirit of the age of exploration. 243 00:29:17,860 --> 00:29:22,380 These first explorers borrowed the techniques of the Arctic peoples. 244 00:29:23,620 --> 00:29:28,940 They wore fur gloves and boots and burned seal blubber to keep warm. 245 00:29:31,020 --> 00:29:35,300 They built sleds based on a traditional Inuit design. 246 00:29:41,140 --> 00:29:44,980 They even made their sleeping bags from reindeer hide. 247 00:29:51,100 --> 00:29:56,739 Scott and his men sought the glory of discovery in an untouched wilderness, 248 00:29:56,740 --> 00:29:59,419 and died in the attempt. 249 00:29:59,420 --> 00:30:03,179 But he, and those who followed him, were the first to reveal 250 00:30:03,180 --> 00:30:06,340 the splendour of Antarctica to the rest of the world. 251 00:30:14,500 --> 00:30:18,779 The lure of adventure still draws intrepid travellers today. 252 00:30:18,780 --> 00:30:21,259 Like the first explorers, 253 00:30:21,260 --> 00:30:26,379 most modern visitors come during the brief summer when the cold relents 254 00:30:26,380 --> 00:30:31,699 enough for the toughest icebreakers to reach the edge of the continent, 255 00:30:31,700 --> 00:30:34,180 but most still need a helicopter to go further. 256 00:30:43,340 --> 00:30:47,179 The scenery in Antarctica is magnificent and dramatic, 257 00:30:47,180 --> 00:30:51,220 but what really attracts people here is the wildlife. 258 00:30:53,540 --> 00:30:56,460 An emperor penguin colony is a particular highlight. 259 00:31:00,820 --> 00:31:03,100 Because human beings didn't arrive in the 260 00:31:03,101 --> 00:31:05,379 Antarctic until the past few centuries, 261 00:31:05,380 --> 00:31:07,980 the animals have never developed a fear of man. 262 00:31:12,260 --> 00:31:16,980 But very strict regulations govern how close people can approach any wildlife. 263 00:31:18,860 --> 00:31:21,060 And when visitors leave, they must take 264 00:31:21,061 --> 00:31:23,260 every trace of their visit away with them. 265 00:31:51,060 --> 00:31:56,580 Since 1959, the whole of Antarctica has been protected by international treaty. 266 00:31:58,380 --> 00:32:02,739 The nations of the world have agreed that no country can claim Antarctica, 267 00:32:02,740 --> 00:32:04,900 or prospect for its oil or minerals. 268 00:32:07,980 --> 00:32:11,779 The only significant human activities allowed here are those that 269 00:32:11,780 --> 00:32:14,540 extend our scientific knowledge. 270 00:32:18,580 --> 00:32:22,380 But unlocking Antarctica's secrets requires some unusual tools. 271 00:32:40,620 --> 00:32:44,499 This brand new robot submarine has been designed to go 272 00:32:44,500 --> 00:32:47,060 far beyond the limits of any human. 273 00:32:59,500 --> 00:33:02,320 Today, this diver is putting the sub through 274 00:33:02,321 --> 00:33:05,140 its paces on one of its very first dives. 275 00:33:06,460 --> 00:33:10,179 It's designed to be small and nimble enough 276 00:33:10,180 --> 00:33:14,140 to explore the Antarctic seabed without damaging it. 277 00:33:28,500 --> 00:33:32,859 The submarine's mission, as it journeys into the unknown, 278 00:33:32,860 --> 00:33:36,220 is to map the seafloor and look for species new to science. 279 00:33:51,780 --> 00:33:54,680 The seawater here is a degree below zero, so even 280 00:33:54,681 --> 00:33:57,580 the toughest human diver can't stay down for long. 281 00:34:01,180 --> 00:34:06,300 The submarine will explore deeper under the ice than anyone has gone before. 282 00:34:10,940 --> 00:34:15,899 From the depths of the ocean to the highest peaks of the land, 283 00:34:15,900 --> 00:34:18,680 new discoveries are being made even in places 284 00:34:18,681 --> 00:34:21,460 which were first visited over a century ago. 285 00:34:39,000 --> 00:34:41,780 Mount Erebus was an irresistible draw to 286 00:34:41,781 --> 00:34:44,560 the legendary explorer Ernest Shackleton. 287 00:34:45,760 --> 00:34:51,239 In 1908, his men became the first to climb this active volcano. 288 00:34:51,240 --> 00:34:56,040 They soon discovered that this is the coldest place on the Antarctic coast. 289 00:34:57,040 --> 00:34:59,160 Today's explorers still have to guard 290 00:34:59,161 --> 00:35:01,279 against frostbite in the height of summer 291 00:35:01,280 --> 00:35:04,960 when temperatures rarely creep above minus 30 degrees centigrade. 292 00:35:10,920 --> 00:35:15,719 Shackleton's men had no idea of the extraordinary spectacle 293 00:35:15,720 --> 00:35:18,040 that lay beneath their feet. 294 00:35:23,520 --> 00:35:26,119 Yep, OK, up on the wall there somewhere now. Yeah. 295 00:35:26,120 --> 00:35:29,559 Under the ice and snow is a network of caves, 296 00:35:29,560 --> 00:35:34,520 which only a handful of expert cavers have ever dared to enter. 297 00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:46,080 This is the first scientific expedition to explore them in detail. 298 00:35:51,520 --> 00:35:56,240 Here, there are ice formations that occur nowhere else on Earth. 299 00:35:59,040 --> 00:36:03,160 Each cave contains its own unique collection of structures. 300 00:36:30,680 --> 00:36:36,439 The team is mapping the caves to see how their shape changes over the years. 301 00:36:36,440 --> 00:36:39,040 OK, flat side to here. 302 00:36:47,200 --> 00:36:52,239 That's 126.8 degrees for the angle. 303 00:36:52,240 --> 00:36:53,799 126.8. Correct. 304 00:36:53,800 --> 00:36:58,399 The steam leaking from vents in the side of the volcano 305 00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:02,680 is constantly sculpting this labyrinth that extends deep under the ice. 306 00:37:04,680 --> 00:37:08,439 When the hot breath of the volcano hits the icy walls, 307 00:37:08,440 --> 00:37:12,160 the moisture in the air freezes into beautiful shapes. 308 00:37:25,640 --> 00:37:30,399 Some of the crystals are so unusual that the cavers are investigating 309 00:37:30,400 --> 00:37:33,880 a remote but tantalising possibility about their formation. 310 00:37:36,560 --> 00:37:39,719 Could it be that some of these extraordinary crystal shapes 311 00:37:39,720 --> 00:37:44,520 are formed by highly specialised bacteria, living in the ice? 312 00:38:00,280 --> 00:38:02,639 Nobody yet knows the answer. 313 00:38:02,640 --> 00:38:06,479 This is just one of the many strange mysteries that draw people to 314 00:38:06,480 --> 00:38:09,640 work in a place that is so hostile to human life. 315 00:38:17,200 --> 00:38:22,039 While some scientists come to Erebus to explore its bizarre ice caves, 316 00:38:22,040 --> 00:38:27,320 others visit the volcano to study the innermost workings of our planet. 317 00:38:33,120 --> 00:38:36,999 Erebus is one of the most active volcanoes on Earth, 318 00:38:37,000 --> 00:38:41,600 but even so, volcanologists work on the very rim of its crater. 319 00:38:43,280 --> 00:38:48,079 They stand in the bitter cold, while 100 metres below them 320 00:38:48,080 --> 00:38:51,560 is a lava lake where temperatures are over a thousand degrees centigrade. 321 00:38:55,400 --> 00:38:58,280 This is a rare glimpse of the molten rock 322 00:38:58,281 --> 00:39:01,160 that lies beneath the earth's crust. 323 00:39:15,840 --> 00:39:19,319 But research here is looking up as well as down, 324 00:39:19,320 --> 00:39:22,959 measuring how the gases that bubble out of the volcano 325 00:39:22,960 --> 00:39:26,000 influence the make-up of the air we breathe. 326 00:39:29,280 --> 00:39:34,519 Antarctica is the best place to measure any changes in our atmosphere 327 00:39:34,520 --> 00:39:38,080 because it has the least polluted air on Earth. 328 00:39:39,240 --> 00:39:44,280 It's also the perfect place to launch more outward-looking missions. 329 00:39:50,120 --> 00:39:54,599 This balloon, made of material no thicker than Clingfilm, 330 00:39:54,600 --> 00:39:57,600 will eventually grow to be 300 metres tall. 331 00:40:00,720 --> 00:40:04,599 It will carry a device for detecting cosmic rays, 332 00:40:04,600 --> 00:40:09,800 tiny particles from the beginning of time that are only now reaching earth. 333 00:40:20,640 --> 00:40:25,639 The balloon will travel to the very edge of outer space 334 00:40:25,640 --> 00:40:29,720 to gather clues about the formation of the universe. 335 00:40:38,240 --> 00:40:43,160 Even today, very few ever make the journey inland from the coast. 336 00:40:44,360 --> 00:40:48,800 We still know remarkably little about the interior of the continent. 337 00:40:50,480 --> 00:40:55,719 The people on this plane are trying to answer one of the fundamental questions. 338 00:40:55,720 --> 00:40:58,080 How much ice is there in Antarctica? 339 00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:07,039 They measure the depth of the ice sheet, 340 00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:11,040 which is over 4,000 metres in places, using radar. 341 00:41:12,960 --> 00:41:15,999 Their work will enable us to see 342 00:41:16,000 --> 00:41:19,280 how the volume of Antarctica's ice changes in the future. 343 00:41:20,480 --> 00:41:24,000 It also makes it possible to map a hidden landscape. 344 00:41:37,320 --> 00:41:42,999 This plane is following the same route through the Trans-Antarctic Mountains 345 00:41:43,000 --> 00:41:46,119 that Captain Scott took a hundred years ago. 346 00:41:46,120 --> 00:41:48,900 His team hauled their sleds over a hundred 347 00:41:48,901 --> 00:41:51,680 miles up this glacier, the Beardmore. 348 00:41:58,720 --> 00:42:03,039 Skirting seemingly endless crevasses, with no map to guide them 349 00:42:03,040 --> 00:42:08,040 and no idea of what lay ahead, it was a journey of extraordinary suffering. 350 00:42:19,080 --> 00:42:21,519 Their target lay beyond the mountains, 351 00:42:21,520 --> 00:42:26,880 over 3,000 metres above sea level, on the Antarctic Plateau. 352 00:42:33,480 --> 00:42:37,119 An unbroken sheet of ice, larger than Western Europe, 353 00:42:37,120 --> 00:42:41,720 this is the coldest, the windiest, the most lifeless place on Earth. 354 00:42:51,200 --> 00:42:55,559 Roald Amundsen's team narrowly defeated Scott's to become 355 00:42:55,560 --> 00:43:01,800 the first people to reach the South Pole on the 14th of December 1911. 356 00:43:02,960 --> 00:43:08,560 Nobody else successfully completed the journey for nearly 50 years after that. 357 00:43:12,800 --> 00:43:17,399 But, since 1957, there has been a permanent base at the South Pole. 358 00:43:17,400 --> 00:43:20,040 You can even land a plane on the ice runway. 359 00:43:23,240 --> 00:43:26,060 The early explorers would be astounded by 360 00:43:26,061 --> 00:43:28,880 the facilities at the South Pole today. 361 00:43:32,160 --> 00:43:35,000 Construction work isn't easy when the average 362 00:43:35,001 --> 00:43:37,840 summer temperature is minus 25 degrees Centigrade. 363 00:43:39,160 --> 00:43:42,719 But, despite the difficulties, the most high-tech scientific research 364 00:43:42,720 --> 00:43:47,120 station ever built was unveiled here in 2006. 365 00:43:52,880 --> 00:43:57,159 The brand new Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station is designed to 366 00:43:57,160 --> 00:44:01,319 cope with the World's most extreme conditions. 367 00:44:01,320 --> 00:44:06,679 The building's sloping edge deflects the prevailing wind. 368 00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:10,239 Beneath, there are stilts that can raise the whole building 369 00:44:10,240 --> 00:44:13,280 a further eight metres to keep it above the accumulating snow. 370 00:44:22,080 --> 00:44:27,759 Living inside is as close to being on a space-station as you can find on Earth. 371 00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:32,239 This base is totally self-sufficient, the people are completely 372 00:44:32,240 --> 00:44:36,800 cut off from the outside world for more than half the year over winter. 373 00:44:43,960 --> 00:44:48,320 The total darkness makes this the perfect place to study the night sky. 374 00:44:56,320 --> 00:45:00,399 The group of star gazers will be the most isolated community on our 375 00:45:00,400 --> 00:45:03,720 planet, but they will have all their needs catered for. 376 00:45:09,320 --> 00:45:13,479 There is even a greenhouse where fresh vegetables grow under 377 00:45:13,480 --> 00:45:18,160 artificial light all through the darkest, coldest winter anywhere. 378 00:45:34,760 --> 00:45:39,720 The sun sets in March at the South Pole, and won't rise again for six months. 379 00:45:45,840 --> 00:45:50,799 For a few days at this time of year, high altitude clouds of ice crystals 380 00:45:50,800 --> 00:45:53,180 continue to catch the sunlight, even when 381 00:45:53,181 --> 00:45:55,560 the sun itself is far below the horizon. 382 00:46:13,160 --> 00:46:16,359 But soon all trace of the sun disappears, 383 00:46:16,360 --> 00:46:21,560 and today's over-wintering scientists remember the first explorers. 384 00:46:25,920 --> 00:46:29,959 These men, who endured the winter in flimsy wooden huts, 385 00:46:29,960 --> 00:46:34,359 borrowed knowledge from the Arctic pioneers before them, 386 00:46:34,360 --> 00:46:40,079 but they came here to study and explore, rather than to hunt or exploit. 387 00:46:40,080 --> 00:46:45,080 They embodied the human spirit that has enabled us to survive at the poles. 388 00:46:50,920 --> 00:46:54,599 Here, we are pushed to our limits, but in being pushed, humanity has 389 00:46:54,600 --> 00:47:00,200 achieved the extraordinary and opened up the last frontier. 390 00:47:00,225 --> 00:47:02,725 Subtitles by APOLLO www.addic7ed.com 391 00:47:03,305 --> 00:47:09,637 Support us and become VIP member to remove all ads from www.OpenSubtitles.org